Disclaimer: the following are examples of how I train, and also suggestions gleaned from dog training books. Please do your own homework and decide for yourself how you'll train - but DO train your dog well.

BEFORE WE BEGIN to train a puppy, we need to understand how dogs think. Dogs are not fuzzy little humans; if you treat them like people, you'll have a dog who is unbearable to live with. Studies say that LESS than 35% of all family dogs live out their lives with their original owners. Usually this is because of behavior problems. Most behavior problems are caused by poor training, or no training.

I doubt anyone knows exactly what any dog is thinking, but by studying their behavior patterns, we know that a normal dog with a sound mind is extremely predictable.

Dogs who think they're the leader in their "human pack" will be difficult to control, and maybe even dangerous - regardless of whether they had the potential to be a great dog or not. Even the most perfect, well bred dog can become a horrible pain IF YOU TEACH HIM THAT HE'S THE BOSS. Remember he's an animal and must be trained.

So before you start training your puppy, understand canine body language.

Here is a list of DOMINANT signals or behaviors ((borrowed from a list in a book I have)) (I have not seen MOST of these behaviors in my old bloodline of dogs - mine tend to be extreme "people pleasers" -  but having done a lot of rescue and working with other people's dogs, I know that staffybulls with a more stubborn, dominant type personality exist):

Below is a list of SUBMISSIVE/or SUBORDINATE signals or behaviors (this body language tells you the dog respects your position above him, feels affection for you and he wishes to please you) When you see these behaviors, you reaffirm them by saying GOOD DOG! (or similar) and giving affection, petting etc:

FROM THE BEGINNING, you must establish a relationship with your puppy - one of TRUST but also of dominance (YOUR dominance, not his). Later, when you're teaching TRICKS etc. you'll "pay the puppy to perform". But first you must develop your relationship by being a reliable, consistent leader, always in control of the puppy.

At this point you might be thinking dogs and humans really aren't that different. I won't argue - I could make a long list of people I know personally who act just like animals. You probably could too. In fact, I remember a stage in my life when that description fit ME very well . . . Yes, humans have the capacity to act like brute beasts, never having a thought or action that rises above the physical, what they FEEL like doing. But here's the difference -- people are made "in the image of God" and humans have the potential for something higher than just physical existence - people CAN act human. Dogs really cannot. They're dogs, they're supposed to be dogs and they'll always be dogs. Even the best possible dogs are still following their canine instincts, acting like good dogs.

So . . . puppies learn physically. You cannot sit him down, have a talk and expect him to think it over and change. Therefore, begin your relationship by showing the puppy that you have the power to handle and control him - - and that he will not be physically harmed by submitting to your control. When you're cuddling your puppy, practice these exercises with him (these work when he's tiny -- if the dog is bigger, you might only be able to do the last two) DO NOT have other dogs or animals in the room when you do these exercises:

On his back: Sit on the floor. Lay puppy on his back, cradled in your hands (or if he's big, on your legs) with one hand under his head and one supporting his back. Gently tip him so his head is lower than his body and he's in midair. If he struggles, follow the same pattern as above. When he stops struggling, talk to him in a soft, happy voice. Repeat lessons as above.

Straddled and lifted: If the dog is larger, straddle him with one of your legs on each side of him; face the same direction he is. Put your hands under his chest, just behind the front legs and lock your fingers together. Lift his front legs off the ground for 15 to 45 seconds each time. If he struggles, do as above. When he stops struggling, do as above. Repeat as needed.

Remember, this relationship will work only if you spend time with your dog! He cannot be left alone most of the time or turned out into the yard alone. Dogs were not made to be alone; they cannot emotionally or mentally cope with isolation. If you want a good family dog, include him in daily life and raise him underfoot of the family. Shower him with affection, but always remember and remind him that he's the lowest member of the pack.

CRATE TRAINING  

My method of bringing up a new puppy is simple. I’m a busy person and want to have the most possible time to play with my puppy, rather than clean up its messes and destruction. So I crate-train. 

Please remember the SBT is a strong dog with a powerful chewing ability. All puppies love to chew, but your dog will be able to eat an entire couch, car interior etc. in minutes, or to chew his way through a bedroom wall (or wood fence) if he wants out. Crating your SBT (when not supervising) is an act of kindness. It will protect him, your belongings and your loving relationship.

My method is as follows: I have two crates for beginning to train an 8 week old puppy. (If you’re bringing in an older dog or puppy, you may want to skip some of these steps.)

One is his airline crate. This serves as his night-time den & bed. It has blankets and pillows and is situated near my bed so that he can watch me sleep. In extreme cases (with very young pups) I may be required to put my fingers through the bars at night until he falls asleep. But usually, just seeing me is enough to help him sleep quietly.

A puppy who cannot see you during the night (each time he opens his eyes) may scream and cry. He’s not trying to be obnoxious – he’s just scared, lonely and feeling rejected. He’s spent his entire life with his family nearby. YOU are now his family.

Puppies sleep well in these "dens" and usually try not to soil them. Be sure to take puppy out to potty immediately upon waking early in the morning.

The second crate I use is his daytime metal play-crate. Small enough that he’ll not want to soil it, but open on all sides so he has plenty of stimulation and can see everything that’s happening. I situate this play-crate in the busiest room of the house.

This play-crate should be large enough for puppy to stand, turn around, etc. The puppy should not be left in there all day. This cage is to keep him safe and out of trouble when you're done playing with him, cannot watch him etc. With very young puppies, I carry them outside immediately upon opening the play yard, so they will not have an opportunity to form bad habits. We spend plenty of time playing with them out of the play-crate – usually outdoors – but whenever we are not supervising the puppy, we keep them safe and out of trouble by putting them back into their play-yard.

If you bring a puppy into your home during the cold winter months, the above type of play-crate will not be good enough! 

When raising a puppy during cold weather, he will need a larger INDOOR enclosure that he can run, jump and play in. You will need to allow him newspapers or something else to use for pottying on, because you cannot keep him outside long enough to do all of his business when the temperatures are low. If I'm raising a winter puppy in a cold climate, I use an X-Pen INSIDE of a large kiddie swimming pool, lined with newspapers that I clean frequently during the day. As with the other play-crate, I situate the swimming pool/X-Pen in the busiest room of the house.

Your puppy is an individual. You will probably know when he/she is ready to be trusted running loose in the house without supervision. This day will come sooner if you spend a good amount of time training your puppy.

TEACHING THE COME COMMAND, AND INFO ON PUPPY BITING

Here are some thoughts on basic training of a Staffordshire Bull Terrier.

This is a brief explanation for those who haven't had a SBT pup before and haven't yet had time to study up on it. In this page I cover only TWO issues. These are the things I’m asked about most frequently. Please go beyond this in your training. Buy books on positive training, or enroll in classes.

TEACHING PUP TO COME

This method is for teaching commands and tricks. Please see the top of this page for establishing a proper subordinate relationship first; that is done differently.

A couple of times per week at first, you put some treats in your pocket. When the puppy looks like it might come over to you, quickly say <puppies name>, COME! And then praise her and give her a treat when she comes to you.

After you’ve done this a few times, she’ll come when called.

Having a dog who comes to you when called is extremely important. Not only is it more convenient than chasing her around trying to catch her all the time, or threatening her, being ignored and then chasing her around trying to catch her…... it also ensures that you can quickly get your dog away from dangerous situations with just a word.

If you don’t use a positive, paying/reward method, you might have trouble teaching her to obey the come command.

Puppy training lasts just a season, but you’ll reap what you sow for a lifetime. Have fun; be kind and caring, but also clever and calculating.

TEACHING PUPPIES WHO BITE

It is normal for pups to be nippy, and to want to chew on everyone. Your puppy will come to you thinking he should play with you just the same way he played with his littermates. You will teach him that he CANNOT treat you like a dog.

"Mouthing" is soft tasting and gentle chewing while playing and it can sometimes be an ongoing thing that you have to constantly remind them not to do. Mouthing is annoying, and will be easier to discourage if you're establishing yourself as the leader of his human pack.

But if your puppy is biting hard, playing too rough with nipping-that-hurts...that must be stopped immediately. It’s not a sign of a bad dog. It’s how they play with other dogs; it was acceptable when he was a baby with his littermates, so he doesn't understand why it's not acceptable with you. Nevertheless, it's your job to make sure he stops that right away and learns quickly that he is NOT ALLOWED to bite people, not even in play. He is in danger if allowed to have this behavior.

It cannot be tolerated or allowed at all.

You need to be as firm as necessary. If I have a soft dog who gets scared easily, then I tell her gruffly errhhhh, or no-no or no-bite, while stopping her from doing it. If I have one who tests me and laughs at me when I say no, then I'm more firm.

If the pup continues to be rowdy and way out of line, the adult will suddenly SNARL.... if that doesn't scare the pants off the pup and cause them to control themselves, the next time, the adult will SNARL, grab the pup, roll it on it's back and hold it down with a mouth around it's neck.....

At this point, even the most hard-headed puppies SUBMIT by holding still. After that, they pretty much behave themselves and treat the older dog with love and respect.

It doesn't bother them in the least and it's very emotionally healthy...